Exarchia is one of the most fascinating neighborhoods in Athens. Known for its rebellious history, alternative cultural scene, and unique blend of art, music, and politics, this neighborhood attracts both locals and curious travelers. Here, street art meets anarchist ideals, while a vibrant community gathers in the cafés, bars, and bookstores. Anyone who wants to experience authentic, unvarnished Athens should definitely not miss Exarchia.
Good film about the Exarchia neighborhood (Deutsche Welle, YouTube)
Why visit Exarchia?
Exarchia is a district full of energy, creativity, and history. It’s a place for free spirits, art lovers, music fans, and anyone looking to experience the real Athens off the beaten track. With its colorful graffiti, independent cafes, historic sites, and lively bars, Exarchia is one of the most exciting and inspiring neighborhoods in the Greek capital. Those looking for a unique experience shouldn’t miss the opportunity to explore this alternative neighborhood.
Athens district |
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Old Town Athens | Anafiotika |
Kolonaki | Exarchia |
Psirri | Koukaki |
Overview of Athens districts |
Things to See and Do in Exarchia
1. Polytechnic University and Murals
The Polytechnic University is a pivotal site in Exarchia’s history. Its walls are covered with impressive graffiti and political messages that reflect the neighborhood’s revolutionary past and present. Here, you can gain a sense of Exarchia’s militant identity.
2. Strefi Hill
For breathtaking views of Athens, take a walk up Strefi Hill, which rises on the edge of Exarchia. This leafy retreat is ideal for a short hike or a relaxing picnic overlooking the Acropolis.
3. National Archaeological Museum
Just a short walk from Exarchia is the National Archaeological Museum, the largest and most important museum in Greece. World-famous treasures from antiquity can be admired here, including the Mask of Agamemnon and the bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon.
4. Bookstores and Alternative Cultural Centers
Exarchia is known for its independent bookstores and cultural centers. Here, you can find literature on politics, philosophy, and art, often in small, cozy shops with a personal atmosphere. The “Lefki Selida” bookstore, which specializes in left-wing literature, is particularly popular.
5. Street Art and Graffiti Tours
The neighborhood is a vast open-air gallery with some of Athens’ most impressive murals. Many works have strong political and social messages. A guided street art tour can help you understand the meaning behind the artwork.
Café and Bar Culture in Exarchia
Exarchia is a haven for coffee lovers, music fans, and night owls. Many cafés and bars have an alternative, relaxed atmosphere and attract a creative, open-minded community.
Navarinou Park: A community park managed by residents with a relaxed atmosphere.
Floral Café: A hybrid of bookstore and café, ideal for reading or working.
Exarchia Square: People gather here for discussions, street music, and occasional political events.
Tsin Tsin: A small, lively bar with a wide selection of drinks.
Clandestino: An alternative bar with an international clientele.
Dining in Exarchia
The neighborhood offers a wide variety of restaurants, from traditional tavernas to vegan and vegetarian establishments.
Rozalia: A cozy tavern with a lovely courtyard serving classic Greek dishes.
Ama Lachei: One of the best places for mezedes (Greek tapas) in a quiet, leafy setting.
Cookoomela: A vegan restaurant with innovative dishes based on Greek recipes.
Yiantes: An organic restaurant with a focus on fresh, local ingredients.
Exarchia by Night
At night, Exarchia transforms into a vibrant center for live music and alternative entertainment.
Kyttaro Live Club: One of Athens’ most legendary music clubs, featuring rock, jazz, and blues concerts.
Rabbithole: An underground bar with indie music and an artistic flair.
Ilion Plus: A venue for alternative parties, theater performances, and concerts.
Safety and Atmosphere
Exarchia has a reputation for being a rebellious neighborhood, which may initially put some visitors off. However, it is actually a lively and hospitable place where visitors are warmly welcomed. Occasional protests or political rallies are part of everyday life, but usually do not affect the normal life of the neighborhood. Those who want to experience the authentic, creative, and alternative side of Athens will feel at home here.
Getting to Exarchia
Exarchia is centrally located and easily accessible on foot or by public transport. The nearest metro stations are Omonia (Lines 1 and 2) and Panepistimio (Line 2). From there, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the heart of the neighborhood.
History and Background
The Exarchia district lies between the city center and the northern districts of Athens. It was named after a merchant named Exarchos, who opened a shop here in the 19th century. Since then, Exarchia has developed into a cultural and political center, often at the center of social movements and protests. The district became particularly well-known for the 1973 student protests against the military dictatorship, which led to the storming of the Polytechnic University – an event that still resonates in Greek history.
Today, Exarchia remains a symbol of resistance and a haven for alternative lifestyles. It is home to artists, intellectuals, activists, and a creative underground scene that fills the district with energy and innovation.